Scrambly legs

I learned the appropriate usage for a relatively rarely spoken word this weekend while attempting to climb Snowdonia, a mountain so fierce that the first hikers to master Everest hiked it during training:

Scrambly (adj): Irregular, haphazard. Aka, the presence of loose rocks, steep elevation and uneven terrain, which may cause one to quickly hustle using any means necessary.

i.e. “Oh, it’s not too bad, but there are a few scrambly bits.”

Until I came upon them, I didn’t really understand the severity of said scrambly bits; didn’t understand that I’d be on my hands and knees, holding onto sharp slabs of slate with mossy patches (slush on the side), wondering whether I’d ever see my friends and family again.

As I grit my teeth for photos, forcing a smile, all I could think was: “This is going to be the photo they print in the papers with the headline: AMERICAN GIRL QUITS JOB TO TRAVEL & WRITE, THEN BITES IT ON FIRST ADVENTURE.”

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Before we even started, resting from the 1-mile huff from the car.

Dramatically morbid, I know. But for several parts of the ascent I was seriously scared. Going up was tough, but I knew going down would be worse. I’d inevitably be on my bum the entire time, causing a backlog of climbers to roll their eyes and laugh at the American chick who couldn’t stand upright lest her wobbly knees give out causing a domino effect of hikers to somersault down the summit. It didn’t help that the three friends I was climbing with had completed marathons and hiked other “scrambly” mountains before, including Ben Nevis in Scotland.

(From left) Me (holding on), Felicity, Sally and Rachel.

(From left) Me (holding on), Felicity, Sally and Rachel.

Rachel, the leader of the pack.

Rachel, the leader of the pack.

While I was fairly physically fit to partake in such a feat (“fairly” being the operative word here, since I’d been hanging out with Scotch eggs and Victoria sponge cakes for the past three months), it was the mental fear I was worried about, as this was the first time I ever attempted to scale a summit.

At least, I thought it was…?

See, I kept saying aloud, “I’ve never done anything like this before” as a sorta-disclaimer to my climbing partners lest they take it somewhat easy on me and understand my hesitation and anxiety. (They did, by the way. Amazingly.) But as I was making my way up the Miner’s Track – an 8.5 mile trail of varied terrain that our hostel owners said was “relatively easy” – I started to recall all the other feats I’d partaken in over the years, many of which caused a similar sense of fear.

It’s funny how you can forget something that seemed so traumatic at the time. Like when you stub your toe or walk into the edge of your bed and think to yourself, “Damn that’s going to leave a mark” and then days later you have no idea how that bruise got there.

But as we rounded the edges of the clear, mineral-filled green lakes at the start of the trail, I remembered climbing through King’s Canyon in the outback of Australia back in 2001. It was well over 110-degrees and the red rocks and boulders were smooth, leaving very little to grip onto. We had a limited (and unquenchingly warm) supply of water, which was only drinkable after adding lemon-powder supplements. And yet we managed to escape dehydration and scorpions, take a dip in natural swimming holes and even catch a glimpse of the “other,” more popular big rock – Uluru – as the sun set behind it.

Snowdonia #Nofilter

Snowdonia lakes #Nofilter

As I ascended up the wide Welsh stone steps, I remembered having to get off my bike to push it up a New Jersey hill during the 50-mile MS bike ride that I decided to do on a whim two years ago, with little more than a Kind Bar in my basket. And yet I managed to make it through the Lincoln Tunnel and over the GW Bridge, all the way back to the finish line with enough time to have some stranger rub ice-y hot onto my thighs.

The only way is up...

The only way is up…

As I peeled off layers, I recalled all the sweat dripping from my forehead while trekking through Cinque Terre in Italy this summer, the clear blue waters thousands of feet below the cliff to my left, crushed figs in the rocky ground at my feet, bits of stones slipping off the edge like checker pieces shuffling squares. Just as I thought the half-bottle of wine I had during my “rest stop” in Corniglia might cause me to check mate off the edge, I rounded the corner to see Vernazza, my destination. Upon reaching its shore, I immediately dropped trou and waded into the water for a dip more refreshing than the lemonia gelato I’d had the night before. (It was heaven in a cone, I tell you.)

As we descended the other side of Snowdonia on a slush-free, less steep trail (which we discovered thanks to my “being all American” and asking three older guys for a better option than the Death Descent of the trail we came up), I saw dozens of sheep, which reminded me of skydiving from 12,000-feet in New Zealand on that same backpacking trip in 2001. As the wind jellied my cheeks and I pulled for the ‘chute, I remained focused on the little white fluffy things dotting the rolling green pastures below, with the snowy tip of Franz Josef glacier in the background. All of that after hiking up said glacier, losing my grip and scraping my shin with the talons I was strapped into. (Still have the scar to prove it!)

Baaaaaah. Whatchoolookin' at?

Baaaaaah. Whatchoolookin’ at?

Miraculously, there were other outdoorsy feats, too. While they didn’t necessarily feature too much “scrambling,” as I huffed and puffed up this magic dragon of a mountain, the ways in which my senses were affected by these other natural wonders got me through:

The touch of cool mist from the waterfalls in Iguazu, Argentina…

Mist and a rainbow at Iguazu, Argentina.

The taste of actual Alaskan salmon, which had been caught just hours earlier by my brother…

Fresh-cooked (and caught) salmon in Alaska, aboard the Heron.

The scent of sulfur up at the top of Volcano Pacaya in Guatemala…

Sulfur atop Volcano Pacaya in Guatemala.

The sound of Howler monkey’s in the trees from atop the ancient Mayan ruins of Tikal in Mexico…

Little people at the bottom of Mayan Ruins in Tulum.

The sight of all those Joshua trees while driving through their namesake national park in Cali…

Joshua Trees in Cali.

And so maybe I hadn’t reached a “summit” before, but I have peaked among nature and lived to tell the tale. Thankfully, having made it up and down alive, I’m now able to add this scary feat to the dare-if-you-will-again list of strenuous activities I will inevitably scramble to conquer and attempt to remember while doing so.

The four musketeers at Pen-Y-Gywrd pub where the Everest climbers came for a pint.

The four musketeers, post-climb, at Pen-Y-Gywrd pub where the Everest climbers came for a pint.

Home & away

So now that I’m a free agent, I’ve “moved house” as they say here, and am embarking on the second part of my NGAT adventure, which will include a bit of exploring here in London and the UK, and a few trips abroad in Europe. My plan is to return home to the US of A and the NY of C in June.

Lucky for me, home is where the cooked meals, nails salons and yoga studios are! It’s taken me just over three months to actually find a neighborhood that has all of the above and it’s here in Balham, southwest London where my friend Clare and her boyfriend Simon have so kindly welcomed me into their house.

As luck would have it, Simon is a fierce cook and has already whipped up one of the best meals I’ve had in ages.

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Simon and Clare and food!

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The homecooked yumminess by Chef Si

It’s funny how such simple pleasures as lamb mixed with rocket, chili and roasted potatoes can be so heartwarming. Pair that with a stellar, sweaty yoga class in the morning, followed by a manicure where they paint the tips AND massage you (for the same price!) and well, there’s no place like almost-home…

…until that travel bug takes hold and it’s time to hit the road (or sky).

And actually, that’s what I’m doing this weekend.

Sometime about a month ago I agreed to go hiking in Wales with Rachel and her friends. I’m not really much of a hiker, but Wales sounded new and different and, like John Candy and Dan Aykroyd, I like the great outdoors.

Mr. Outdoors, John Candy

Mr. Outdoors, John Candy

Everyone I told that we were hiking Snowdonia has been like, “Oh that’s a serious hike,” which makes me a bit nervous as I’m more Downward Dog than Bear Grylls. But after Arthur’s Seat last week in Edinburgh and a hot yoga class this morning, hopefully I’m nice and limber. Key word: hopefully.

On a side note: In case you’re wondering, while the swap may be over, I do plan to continue the blog for the unforeseeable future. I hope Ellie gives us a “hello!” (and maybe even more) as soon as she’s settled back into London, but you can rest assured you’ll get a mouthful from me pretty regularly. I hope you’ll stick around.

Bon weekend!

Just one of those days

I always liked Sunday. Most people find this strange because Sunday usually means one thing: tomorrow is Monday, aka, you’ll be waking up to an alarm in the morning. But to me, Sunday allows you the chance to end one week on a bang, and set the tone for the one that follows.

Today was one of those days. Not One Of Those Days…Ugh. But One Of Those Days…Yessss.

Rather than be all writerly — hey, I’m tired, and the sounds of a Harp will go off at 8:25 tomorrow — here’s a quick hit on why today was Just One of Those Days…Yessss.

Because…when I went to my “local” coffee shop this morning, the barista remembered me. (Granted, I had been there just yesterday. But still. His smile said, “Hello, local girl.”)

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Ain’t that the truth.

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My “local”: White Mulberries

Because…I allowed myself to buy only ONE paper today – and I read the whole thing. Including supplements.

Because…I knew where to get the No. 100 bus even though I wasn’t near my usual stop. AND it came right away.

Because…when I got off the Tube at Chalk Farm to roam Primrose Hill (something I’d been waiting on the damn weather to do), the sun was shining, the locals were dining outside and the shops were open. (Nearly every other time I’ve gone to explore a new neighborhood, my timing has been off and all the boutiques were closed or closing.)

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There’s a light at the end of winter and I found it on Primrose Hill.

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Over the Hill and Far Away…there’s London Towne

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Pretty Primrose

Because…when I went into the local independent book shop, the Julian Barnes book that I had just yesterday added to my list, was on display. Now it’s been upgraded from list to shelf.

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Because…when I finally decided to eat something at 3:50 and walked into Lemonia (recommended by my Post editor for “its consistently delicious Greek food”), the lovely old man running the show let me stay even though they stop serving lunch at 4p.m. (He turned at least five other people away. I felt a little guilty, but only a little. Especially after having the most delicious lemon and rice soup concoction EVER.)

Lemonia from the outside.

Lemonia from the outside.

Because…when I finally found TriYoga, the studio that several people have suggested, er, trying, there happened to be a class starting in 15 minutes. I hadn’t practiced in weeks because of having visitors – both of the family and friend variety and also of the sickness variety – so this was a true gift. Not only was the studio absolutely lovely, with high vaulted ceilings and wooden beams, bright white walls and huge loft windows, plus flowers sprinkled about; but the class was one of the best I’ve had in London. And that thing the teacher did to my head, neck and shoulders during savasana? Gosh, it felt like forever.

Wishing you all..Just One of Those Weeks. X

I’m seeing an American doctor

I’m still sick. This thing is morphing. The headache’s moved on, though the stomach thing is hanging around. But I now seem to have some gross eye infection that glues my eyes together in the morning. My editor has done well to disguise his disgust: ‘Can we help you get a doctor’s appointment?’, read ‘Get the hell out of my office with your pus-ridden peepers.’ Plus my throat feels as if it’s on fire on one side every time I swallow. This bug is nothing if not idiosyncratic.

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The upside of all this is that I’m going to the doctor. An American doctor. There’s a part of me that is terrified that they’re going to make me hand over a gold bar on my way in. But mostly I’m excited. Don’t American doctors know everything? Do total body scans at every appointment? See through your body like the Beano’s X-Ray Specs to locate sinister growths? Officially I’m booked in for my stomach upset/headache/earache/eye grossness/inflamed throat (here you need to tell the receptionist what you’re seeing the doc for, or maybe my doctor’s receptionist is just really fricking nosy.) But I’m tempted to wheel out my years-old ailments. Achey foot, useless back, grim-oid psoriasis (scalp, foot, elbow if you’re interested. Oh, you’re not?) And while I’m at it, maybe I could book in to see an all-American dentist before I leave. Though I don’t want to scare them.

Normal blog service will be resumed next week. I’m headed to Charleston this weekend and I’ll be writing about that come Sunday night. No more pus, I promise.

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